A special place
Born and raised in Kumamoto City, I have always held a special place in my heart for the Amakusa Islands. Ever since childhood, Amakusa has been a familiar destination for adventures like fishing, camping and swimming. Despite being in the same prefecture, Amakusa is a mysterious place that evokes a sense of exoticism, and just the phrase “going to Amakusa” made my heart leap.
The islands themselves are captivating: the cobalt blue sea is dotted with islands of various sizes, connected by unique bridges. The coastline and mountains transform with each location, offering ever-changing vistas. Add to that the breathtaking sunsets, the rich history and culture woven by the locals, the unique ecosystem teeming with life, and of course, the fresh seafood. These elements, combined with the countless joyful memories I’ve made since childhood, make Amakusa a truly special place.
Currently, I’m working on a series of artworks called “Thirty-six Views of Diamond Head,” a homage to Hokusai’s famous “Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji.” Yet, alongside this project, a persistent longing had grown to capture the essence of Amakusa, a place I cherish as profoundly as my current home, Hawai‘i.
I’ve already created a few Amakusa-themed artworks, such as “Ushibuka Haiya.” However, I realized that to truly capture Amakusa’s spirit in my art, a deeper connection was necessary. Immersing myself in its seasonal transformations, rich history and vibrant culture felt essential.
My solo trip in August 2015 was the first step in this creative pilgrimage. Though brief, the three-day journey was a crucial reconnection with the islands’ charm and my deep-seated affection for this magical place.
Returning to Amakusa after seven years
At 8 a.m., I departed from Kumamoto Station in a rental car and headed towards Amakusa. It had been seven years since I last visited Amakusa in April 2009 to see the Ushibuka Haiya Festival. Driving along the nostalgic route from Route 3 to Route 57, I advanced towards Misumi on the northern coast of the Uto Peninsula.
Near the tip of the Uto Peninsula lies Misumi West Port (Misumi Nishikō), one of the components of the World Heritage Site “Sites of Japan’s Meiji Industrial Revolution: Iron and Steel, Shipbuilding and Coal Mining.” It was newly registered on July 5, just a month before this trip. Passing Misumi West Port, I crossed the Tenmonkyō Bridge (Five Bridges of Amakusa, No. 1), which connects the Uto Peninsula to Ōyano Island, the first of the Amakusa Islands. A new bridge, provisionally named the New Tenmonkyō Bridge, was under construction just north of the current bridge.
I stopped by the Amakusa Shirō Tourism Association on Ōyano Island to pick up some brochures for visitors. Then, I drove along the Amakusa Pearl Line to Kamishima Island. Although there is a toll expressway from Matsushima, I opted for the coastal Route 324 to enjoy the scenery of the seaside and harbor towns. I took a restroom break at the Roadside Station (Michi no Eki) Ariake Ripple Land and continued to Hondo. There was heavy traffic from Shimago to the Amakusa Seto Ōhashi Bridge. Once I finally got through the traffic, I visited Mizunodaira Kiln in Hondo.
Mizunodaira Kiln
Amakusa is home to many pottery kilns scattered across the islands. One of my favorite kilns is Mizunodaira Kiln, established in 1765, known for its unique glaze called namako, with its blue and red variations. I purchased a sake cup and plate with the blue glaze and a rice bowl with the red glaze.
Hamabō in Shinwa-machi
I had lunch in Hondo, then headed to the hamabō (Hibiscus hamabo) grove in Shinwa-machi. Although the blooming season had mostly passed, a few were still in bloom. Due to the decreasing number of suitable habitats, the number of hamabō plants is declining nationwide. Large groves like the one in Shinwa are rare in Japan. The hamabō has been designated as the flower of Amakusa City since 2009. I spent about 30 minutes at the hamabō grove, then took Prefectural Road 289 from Komiyaji through the mountains to Route 266, heading to Sakitsu.
Sakitsu
It had been eight years since I last visited Sakitsu in 2008. The Sakitsu Village is part of the “Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region” that were on the tentative list for World Heritage status, with expectations for registration in 2016. Consequently, there were new tourist facilities, changing the atmosphere a bit.
Although the 2016 World Heritage registration was not achieved due to deficiencies in the nomination, the assets were reviewed and re-nominated for 2018.
With the planned itinerary for the day completed but still having daylight left, I decided to revisit Sakitsu in the evening. After a sweaty climb from Suwa Shrine to an observation park (Chapel no Kane Tenbō Kōen), I drove 15 minutes to Amuri, a multi-purpose facility with hot springs in Kawaura-machi, to refresh myself before returning to Sakitsu.
Amuri is a nostalgic place for me. In the fall of 2000, I stayed there with my childhood friends during a trip to Amakusa. Reliving those memories, I soaked in the hot springs.
I enjoyed the tranquil evening scene in Sakitsu. Then, I made my way back to Hondo and checked into a hotel. As I settled in, rain began to fall.
From Hondo to Ushibuka
The rain canceled my early morning plans. Following a leisurely check-out from the hotel, I visited the Amakusa Takarajima Tourism Association in Chūō-shinmachi to gather some brochures for visitors. The staff were very kind and welcoming, and they provided me with excellent customer service. I had breakfast in downtown Hondo, then headed to Ushibuka, the southernmost part of Amakusa.
It had been six years since my last visit to Ushibuka. I first drove up to Tōmiyama Park but didn’t feel like getting out of the car due to the pouring rain. After driving around the town, I visited my uncle in Ushibuka, who I had contacted in advance. My cousin, a college student, was also home for summer vacation. We all had lunch together.
Asami
I left my uncle’s house and headed to Asami. Asami is a small fishing town along Asami Bay, about a 30-minute drive north along the east coast of Shimoshima Island from Ushibuka. It’s a memorable fishing spot taught to me by my uncle, where I frequently went fishing as a child. At dusk, I would easily catch mejina (largescale blackfish) with a simple wooden rod without a reel right under the port’s breakwater. I also aimed for kurodai (black sea bream) with a float. In the summertime, I caught many kisu (Japanese whiting) by casting into the shallows from the rocky shore during low tide.
Visiting Asami for the first time in 16 years, I found the sea muddy brown, likely due to the rain. I wondered if there were still plenty of fish like before.
Hamayū in Ōe
From Asami, I traveled via Sakitsu to Ōe, aiming for the natural habitat of hamayū (Crinum asiaticum). Although the flowers were blooming, the wind carrying sea spray was too strong to keep my camera outside for long.
From Ōe, I drove north along the west coast of Shimoshima Island, stopping by Takahama ware’s Juhō Kiln in Takahama, and then entered Reihoku Town. Although I was planning to explore the town after checking into a hotel in Tomioka, the rain and severe humidity deterred me from venturing outside. Instead, I opted for dinner at the hotel’s restaurant and an early night.
Shikisaki Misaki Park
Early in the morning, I checked out of the hotel and headed to Shikisaki Misaki Park at the western tip of Tomioka Peninsula. The park’s trails are well-maintained, allowing visitors to enjoy seasonal plants easily. Here, I was able to observe hamayū and hamabō once more.
Hakusen shiomaneki on Nagaura Island
From Tomioka, I traveled directly to Matsushima, aiming to see the hakusen shiomaneki (Uca lactea) on Nagaura Island. These small fiddler crabs, about 3/4 inches long, are known for the males’ large claw, which they wave during courtship displays called “shiomaneki” (tidal waving). Nagaura Island is one of Japan’s prime habitats for these crabs.
At the mudflat, countless crabs scurried away into their holes as I approached. If I waited quietly for a while, then they gradually reemerged one by one. Despite the scorching sun, I remained engrossed in observing them.
Lastly, I visited Zōzō Kiln on Iwa Island, but unfortunately, it was closed for the day. After a soak in the hot springs at Spa Thalasso Amakusa on Ōyano Island, I returned to Kumamoto City safely.
All photos were taken by the author.
